East of Midosuji, in the area one block deeper into Umeda, sandwiched between Ogi-cho Street and Sonezaki Street.
The kind of bustling, slightly chaotic atmosphere that flows out from the Hankyu Higashi-dori shotengai (shopping street) seeps into this area too.
The center of that town is the ‘Sonezaki Ohatsutenjin-dori Shotengai’ (shopping street).


Going about 300 meters south through the arcade, you’ll find Tsuyu-tenma Shrine (Rotenma Jinja) at the end.
It’s the place that serves as the setting for Chikamatsu Monzaemon’s “Sonezaki Shinju,” commonly known as “Ohatsutenjin.”
The place where a shinju (double suicide) incident happened 300 years ago is now famous as a power spot for matchmaking.

The flea market that opens on the first Friday and third Sunday of every month.
It’s kind of a laid-back space with nothing but stuff that’s packed with that Showa (post-war Japanese era roughly 1926-1989) feeling everywhere.

Chikamatsu Monzaemon described this temple grounds as “the Sonezaki forest where shadows are dark and the wind blows coldly.”
At that time, it seems the trees were densely overgrown and the area was spacious enough to be called a forest.
That place was lost in the flames of war, and then after the war ended, as the area was being rebuilt, the temple grounds were gradually parceled off and sold little by little.
Nowadays, it looks like they built a shrine in the gap between buildings.

After paying my respects at Ohatsutenjin (shrine), I wander around the shotengai (shopping street) and the back alleys nearby.
Even though the shops at night still have their shutters down, it’s fun to walk along looking at each distinctive storefront and think “Maybe I’ll check this place out next time at night.”
Also, there are actually quite a few shops that do lunch service, so if you find one, it’s nice to just pop in without any plan.


In the middle of the arcade, when you turn west, there’s a narrow alley that’s a dead end. It’s the Ohatsutenjin Ura Sandou (back approach to Ohatsutenjin Shrine).

It seems like it was originally an alley lined with fuzoku shops (adult entertainment establishments).
The owner, who held the land passed down through generations of ancestors, remade it as a food and drink street in 2015 with the desire to create a place where women could feel safe and enjoy themselves even when alone.
The concept is “every day is ennichi (a festival day at a shrine or temple).” So when night comes ______


French, oden (hot pot stew), skewered grilled meats, wine bars. The terrace seats of these individually distinctive shops are overflowing with people.
A lot of young people and women come here too, so as a nighttime district, it’s got a really wholesome vibe to it.
It feels like the skeleton of Showa (early-to-mid 20th century Japan) retro has been dressed up in the clothing of the SNS era, and it matches really well.
This town has vibrancy and brightness, but overall it gives me a calm impression.

Whether you come during the day or at night, whether you’re alone or with someone, there’s something about wandering around this town that just puts you in a relaxed and happy mood.
I really want you to try walking around the town.

[Access]
Get off immediately at Higashi-Umeda Station on the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line


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